• 07:34:53 pm on December 2, 2010 | 4
    Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

    Rolled hems are used as a decorative way of finishing a hem without bias tape or serging the ends.

    I borrowed a pic from because I do not have access to a picture of my own rolled hem just yet, don’t panic, I will add my own picture later.
    What you need:
    sewFabric that needs a hem
    (preferably a light fabric such as chiffon,organza, ect.)
    Starch in a can
    iron & iron board
    scrap fabric (to protect the areas you dont want starched)
    spit (yes I do mean your saliva)
    1) First thing is first with this sewing technique take your fabric iron/press it then measure 1 inch up
    2) Place scrap fabric above the 1 inch to protect the working fabric because you never know what starch can do to light fabrics, they are delicate and can potentially be stained with spots if you dont apply the starch to only the area it is needed. 
    3) When applying the starch to the 1 inch hem area you only need a small amount meaning you dont want pools of starch floating on the fabric. Once the area is starched take your iron and place it just over the fabric, not pressed down, just hovering to steam it. If your iron does not have automatic steam then press the button for steam to steam the area.
    *IMPORTANT note* Only work on a small area at a time. You must only take on how much fabric you think you can finish in the time you have. The longer you let the fabric sit with starch and not finishing the rolled hem can make it very difficult to work with later. The portion of rolled hem that you starch should be completed in one sitting to prevent hassel and headaches later.
    4) When steaming the fabric you should see the ends curl a bit from the starch, this is a good sign. Now its time to get those fingers ready because this is a manually laborious technique. There is a reason clothing with rolled hems cost more, it takes time and finger intensive exercising.
    5) Start at the end of the hems and start rolling the fabric between two fingers to get it to roll up. Be sure to keep it tight and roll it one quarter of the way up. Unroll it and reroll it tighter.
    This particular part of the rolled hem involves you licking your fingers alot to gain traction and help mold the fabric.
    6) What we are doing by rolling it and then re-rolling it and then re-rolling it to tighten the roll is creating an impression in the fabric, like a material memory of the roll.
    7) We continue to roll and unroll, then re-roll until the roll is tight and small. Then work your way up another quarter of an inch doing the same thing.
    Repeat the steps of rolling, unrolling, and re-rolling until the 1 inch mark is met, (or what ever mark you’ve created, in my example it is 1 inch).
    At the end when you have a small tightly wound roll, it will feel and look like you have placed cording in the hem.
    8) Now it is time for sewing.
    Most sights will tell you about sewing it with a sewing machine but the best rolled hems are done by hand, truly couture.
    Take a couple arms lengths of thread, double wax it, iron off the exess with a scrap fabric, then you have the choice of blind hem sewing the roll or sewing a round the roll using the thread like a spiral notebook binding the tubing tightly.
    Blind hems are beautiful.
    ~Glitterlady sewing off


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